In the constellation of horological innovation, certain stars shine brighter than others. One of those is the Opus 5, a watch born not in isolation, but through a rare celestial alignment of three creative forces: URWERK, Harry Winston, and Max Büsser. The year was 2005, and what emerged from this collaboration was a declaration of how far independent watchmaking could go.
Setting the Stage: The Opus Project
The Opus series, conceived by Max Büsser during his tenure at Harry Winston Rare Timepieces, was more than a product line. It was an audacious experiment, a platform to showcase the brilliance of independent watchmakers who, until then, often laboured in the shadows of legacy brands. Each Opus instalment paired Harry Winston with a new watchmaker, granting them near-total creative control and global exposure.
By the time Opus 5 came to life, the project had already made waves with pieces by François-Paul Journe, Antoine Preziuso, and Vianney Halter. But Opus 5 marked a turning point: it was not only one of the most technically ambitious models in the series, but also the first to embody the aesthetic DNA of URWERK, a brand already known for its sci-fi-meets-mechanical approach to telling time.
URWERK Before the Opus
Founded in 1997 by master watchmaker Felix Baumgartner and designer Martin Frei, URWERK was already shaking up traditional watchmaking by the early 2000s. The brand's use of satellite complications and rotating carousels sets it apart. Its breakout moment had come in 2003 with the UR-103, a model that blended avant-garde design with poetic functionality.
But by 2005, URWERK was still considered a niche brand. Its mechanical ideas were radical, its designs polarising. The invitation from Max Büsser to collaborate on Opus 5 was a flattering one. Opening up URWERK to a broader audience.
"The first time at Baselworld I saw the UR-103, I was literally blown away! I immediately offered the Urwerk team the opportunity of creating an Opus. Six months later, Felix and Martin came to see me with two ideas: one an incredible 3D movement which we all agreed would be the OpusV as you know it, and the other a linear time presentation, which will end up being the Urwerk CC1 many years later." - Max Büsser, founder of MB&F.
The Creative Trinity: Max Büsser, Felix Baumgartner, Martin Frei
At the heart of Opus 5 was a rare alchemy. Max Büsser provided the vision and the freedom. Felix Baumgartner brought the mechanical brilliance. Martin Frei shaped the visual language. The result was a watch that redefined what a collaboration could achieve.
Early test piece of the Opus 5, before 3D printing, we used wood!
Unlike many collaborations that merely co-brand or re-skin existing models, Opus 5 was an entirely new construct. It had the DNA of URWERK but was purpose-built for Harry Winston's Opus collection. Opus 5 was so distinct that it later fed forward into the UR-202, a model that refined several of its mechanisms.
Rare UR-202 Blue Platinum, where you can see the development from the Opus 5 into the UR-200 series.
Anatomy of the Opus 5
The Opus 5 was a technical and visual marvel. It featured URWERK's now-signature satellite hour display, where three rotating arms carry four hour numerals each. These arms glide along a 120-degree minute track, offering a linear and intuitive way to read time. On its reverse, nestled beside the winding mechanism, was the world's first service interval display on a mechanical wristwatch. Visually resembling an oil change gauge from an automobile, this indicator subtly reminded the owner when the movement required servicing. It was a poetic nod to mechanical fidelity, and a sly commentary on the responsibilities of ownership in the world of haute horlogerie. The inclusion of this feature was not just playful; it was symbolic. It reinforced the idea that watches are not static trophies but living, breathing machines. They need care, respect, and timely intervention. Power to the people, the case back of the Opus 5 also shows the micro-adjustment screw, which gives the wearer the ability to adjust the balance if the watch is running fast or slow.
"With the UR-103, the satellites gained in hight and volume in comparison to the 101/102, in the Opus 5 we turned the axis of the satellites by 85 degrees,
allowing to concentrate the hour numbers closer to the centre of the carousel which allowed us to add an huge retrograde minute hand."- Felix Baumgarter Master watchmaker and co-founder of URWERK.
Opus 5 Movement
The movement inside the Opus 5 was developed by URWERK, reflecting our growing confidence as an independent manufacturer. It beat at 28,800 vibrations per hour and had a power reserve of 40 hours. The case measured 50mm tall, 36mm wide, and 13.5mm thick. A bold footprint, but surprisingly wearable due to its ergonomics and curved design.
- Satellite Hour Display: The most distinctive feature is its 3D satellite display, where three rotating cubes, each showing four hours, move into position to indicate the current hour.
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Retrograde Minutes: A retrograde minute hand sweeps across a graduated scale on the dial to show the minutes.
- Power Reserve Indicator: A manual wind with a five-day power reserve indicator is visible on the dial.
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Day/Night Indication: A day/night indicator is integrated into the display to distinguish between AM and PM.
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Service Indicator: On the back of the watch, a unique five-year service indicator provides a reminder to the wearer when it's time for maintenance.
Manual Winding:
- Micro Adjustment: This adjustment screw allows for micro-adjusting the balance of the watch to improve accuracy.
3D satellite display and Day/Night indicator
Every surface is detailed with URWERK's signature finishes: sandblasted titanium, deep engraving, and sci-fi geometries that would look at home on the bridge of a spaceship. The overall aesthetic echoed that of an alien artefact, rather than a conventional wristwatch.
Service indicator and micro adjuster on the Opus 5 caseback
Reception and Legacy
The Opus 5 was officially launched at Baselworld 2005, the world's largest watch and jewellery trade show. This platform, known for unveiling the most innovative and groundbreaking timepieces, was the perfect stage for the Opus 5's debut. The reception from collectors and the press alike was electric. Here was a watch that did not ask for attention; it demanded it. It wasn't simply radical in function; it was radical in philosophy.
Critics praised its coherence. Despite its complexity, the watch remained legible. Despite its technicality, it remained wearable. Despite its audacity, it was elegant.
Perhaps most importantly, the Opus 5 proved that URWERK could hold its own among watchmaking's most revered names. It was not just a participant in the indie movement; it was now a leader.
On the wrist, despite the Opus 5's unusual looks, just like URWERK's, when worn, they are surprisingly comfortable.
The Path Not Taken
The Lost Time-Bandit Concept
. What many don't know is that the final design of the Opus 5 was not URWERK's original concept. In the early stages of development, Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner had proposed a much more radical design, nicknamed the Time Bandit.
This version had a flat case, front-facing display with digital-like hour discs, and a dramatic central axis. But due to time constraints, ultimately, Max Büsser encouraged the team to follow a more URWERK-authentic path. The Time Bandit concept was shelved, but not forgotten. Some of its design DNA would eventually reappear in later URWERK creations. In hindsight, this divergence was critical. Rather than diluting the URWERK identity to fit Harry Winston's mould, Opus 5 leaned fully into the URWERK philosophy, projecting time rather than displaying it.
The Opus that never was the Time Bandit concept
Cultural Significance
The Opus 5 changed the trajectory not only for URWERK but also for the indie watchmaking movement. It brought mainstream attention to satellite complications, a hallmark of independent and avant-garde watchmaking. It showed the world what happened when true creative freedom met technical excellence, inspiring a new generation of watchmakers to push the boundaries of traditional watch design.
It also cemented URWERK's position as one of the most daring watch brands of the 21st century. Following Opus 5, the brand saw growing collector demand, industry accolades, and increased independence.
A Collector's Treasure
Today, the Opus 5 is respected among collectors. Produced in minimal quantities, it rarely appears on the secondary market. When it does, it commands a premium, not just for its rarity, but for what it represents. It is, quite literally, a time capsule from a pivotal era in independent watchmaking. A watch that dared to break rules, yet never lost sight of craft. A design that embraced chaos, yet functioned with Swiss precision.
Final Thoughts Why Opus 5 Still Matters
In the ever-evolving narrative of horology, some watches become relics, others become references. The Opus 5 is the latter. It set a precedent for transparency, creativity, and cross-brand collaboration that still echoes today.
For URWERK, it was a leap into the unknown. For Harry Winston, it was a commitment to the avant-garde. For Max Büsser, it was proof that independent watchmaking could be more than a curiosity-it could be a revolution.
Nearly two decades later, the Opus 5 remains a beacon. A timepiece that didn't just tell time, but told a story. One that is still being written.
"Early 2000s, the few independent watchmakers who created not to please potential customers, but because it is their calling, were the first inspiration for me to start my own adventure. To be creatively free had to be the goal, even though it came with a price. Felix and Martin were one of the trailblazers in that domain, and they opened my mind to another defining idea, which will become part of the MB&F DNA: that watchmaking could be three-dimensional. Like their pieces or not, Urwerk wrote a whole new chapter in the history of watchmaking." - Max Büsser, founder of MB&F.
The Opus 5 became a launchpad for URWERK, announcing to the watch world that this was a brand unafraid to rebel. Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei have never chased trends or commercial formulas; they create what they believe in. URWERK is for those who dare to embrace difference, who see beauty in the unexpected, and who are proud to wear the badge of a misfit.
"The Opus 5 was an amazing experience to create what has become an iconic design in the Harry Winston Opus series, but on top of that, it allowed me to interact with great personalities, to name only two of them, for sure the great Max Büsser, who has become a good friend still all these years later. Working on Harry Winston collaboration was also how I met Remy Warluzel, who went on to become a Director at URWERK, and still works today together with me to form URWERK for the future." - Felix Baumgarter, Master watchmaker and co-founder of URWERK.
